All About Crucible Hammers
Customers have asked what our three hammers are used for in the workshop. Do you need all three? Which is most useful?
We use all three. But it’s fair to say we're partial to hammers. And we like hammers that are balanced, well-made and manufactured in the USA. Any woodworker could easily get everything they need from Harbor Freight for a fraction of what we’re charging (heck, you can tie a rock to a stick in a pinch). So why do we make these hammers? We know the answer every time we use them in our work.
Warrington-pattern Hammer (left): This is a tool for delicate tasks. It has a 4-ounce steel head and a long and slender handle that’s based on an 18th-century example I own. I use the Warrington for setting and driving headless brads, escutcheon pins and any other small fasteners. The peen is great for starting fasteners. Pinch the fastener between your thumb and index finger. Drive the peen between your fingers, It will push your fingers out of the way and set the nail in place. Spin the hammer around and use the head to finish the job. I also use the hammer for adjusting the setting of block planes. The peen will sneak between the plane body and lever cap to tap the iron left and right. It’s also useful for setting the position of the iron in a moulding plane – knocking the iron firmly against the plane mortise’s blind side.
Exeter-pattern Hammer (middle): This is my everyday hammer. It has a 9.8-ounce steel head with an octagonal handle. The head is great for starting and driving typical 4d and 6d brads. Like our Warrington hammer, the Exeter's peen is great for starting nails without damaging your fingers. Then spin the hammer around and sink the nail. I use the Exeter for adjusting my bench planes. It has enough “oomph” to move the iron. I also use it to drive drawbore pins and pegs galore.
Lump Hammer (right): The brute of the lineup with a 2.2 lb. head. This is the biggest hammer I use in the shop. It seats joinery, no matter how stuck it might be. It disassembles joints, no matter how tight. It sets legs in seats. Holdfasts in workbenches. It makes things move that are stuck. It makes you feel like you are about two times stronger when banging assemblies together. It’s a tough tool – some of our customers use it for rock climbing. Honestly, if you won’t buy our lump hammer, go buy a cheap 2.2 lb. (1,000 grams) sledge and please give it a try.
About Hammer Manufacturing
There are several ways to make hammers, including open-die forging, drop forging, hand forging and even casting. We have taken a slightly different route: machining steel that has been first hardened to a specific target.
This allows us to get a much finer finish on the head with crisp details, plus we are certain of the head's hardness before it is shipped out. Our heads are made with 4142 medium carbon alloy steel, with just the right amount of hardness for striking nails, iron and wood.
Our handles are made in the USA from domestic woods, and they are specifically designed for our hammer heads. These are not stock handles made by a large corporation for the hammer industry. The handles were designed specifically for its head, and they contribute to the overall balance of the tool.
Most of the handles are hickory, though we also use black locust and ash at times for our lump hammers. The handles are made by two small family firms in the Carolinas. Each handle is hand finished with a non-toxic linseed oil to provide a positive grip.
The hammers are hung one at a time by hand to ensure the head is properly seated, wedged and positioned on the handle. It is a surprisingly labor-intense process. But we find that it's worth it.